Sobov\u00e9, vodop\u00e1dy, d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 a nezkrotn\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda aneb t\u00fdden v Dalarna a J\u00e4mtland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Kdy\u017e jsem poprv\u00e9 od sv\u00fdch koleg\u016f ze severu sly\u0161ela ot\u00e1zku Gillar du fj\u00e4llvandring?<\/em> (Chod\u00ed\u0161 r\u00e1da po hor\u00e1ch?) , tak jsem nerozum\u011bla, co ten fj\u00e4llet <\/em>(hory) vlastn\u011b obsahuje. Jestli r\u00e1da chod\u00edm po hor\u00e1ch. Jasn\u011b, \u017ee jo, a v\u00a0mysli m\u00e1m na\u0161e Krkono\u0161e a Jizerky. Co je tak zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00edho na fj\u00e4llet<\/em>, jsem pochopila a\u017e p\u0159i na\u0161em t\u00fddenn\u00edm roadtripu ve st\u0159edn\u00edm \u0160v\u00e9dsku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nejprve je t\u0159eba \u0159\u00edci, \u017ee\u00a0\u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00e9 hory se s\u00a0t\u011bmi \u010desk\u00fdmi nedaj\u00ed srovnat. Hory, \u00fadol\u00ed, n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161iny a vodop\u00e1dy jsou ve \u0160v\u00e9dsku divok\u00e9. Po\u010das\u00ed je tu nevyzpytateln\u00e9<\/strong>. Jednu chv\u00edli slun\u00ed\u010dko a za p\u011bt minut se p\u0159es \u00fadol\u00ed p\u0159e\u017eene bou\u0159ka a krajina se zahal\u00ed do mlhy. N\u011bkter\u00e9 stezky jsou dlouh\u00e9 a bez po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9ho vybaven\u00ed a offline map se m\u016f\u017eete lehce ztratit nebo si podvrknout nohu v\u00a0nep\u0159edv\u00eddateln\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu. Fj\u00e4llet zkr\u00e1tka nen\u00ed pro b\u00e1bovky.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n Prvn\u00ed den byl na\u0161\u00edm c\u00edlem Malung<\/strong>. P\u0159\u00edmo v\u00a0Malungu se nenach\u00e1z\u00ed nic speci\u00e1ln\u00edho, ale z\u00a0G\u00f6teborgu se sem d\u00e1 dojet autem za\u00a0jeden den. Zhruba v\u00a0t\u00e9to oblasti kon\u010d\u00ed vysokorychlostn\u00ed silnice. Ty nahrad\u00ed okresky. A \u010d\u00edm m\u00e9n\u011b sign\u00e1lu, t\u00edm v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed pravd\u011bpodobnost, \u017ee potk\u00e1te na dlouh\u00fdch lesn\u00edch cest\u00e1ch soby.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u0160v\u00e9dsko m\u00e1 30 n\u00e1rodn\u00edch park\u016f<\/a>. Ka\u017ed\u00fd park m\u00e1 svoj\u00ed mapi\u010dku, n\u011bkter\u00e9 z nich maj\u00ed i informa\u010dn\u00ed centra zvan\u00e1 Naturum<\/strong>, kde v\u00e1m porad\u00ed, a kde m\u00e1te tak\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161inou malou v\u00fdstavu o n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku. Naturum se v\u011bt\u0161inou nach\u00e1z\u00ed u hlavn\u00edch vchod\u016f a Fulufj\u00e4llet<\/a> nen\u00ed v\u00fdjimkou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n V\u00a0n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku Fulufj\u00e4llet se nach\u00e1z\u00ed nejstar\u0161\u00ed strom na sv\u011bt\u011b Old Tjikko<\/a>. Tjikko, jeho\u017e v\u00fdhonky nesou stejnou genetickou informaci ji\u017e skoro 10\u00a0000 let (9 565 let v roce 2023), se rozkl\u00e1d\u00e1 nad vodop\u00e1dem Njupesk\u00e4r. Tento mal\u00fd strome\u010dek obr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed na stejn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b tis\u00edce let.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Njupesk\u00e4r<\/strong> je se sv\u00fdmi 73 metry nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00fd vodop\u00e1d<\/strong>. K\u00a0vodop\u00e1du Njupesk\u00e4r,<\/a> kter\u00fd najdete p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f od Naturum, vede zna\u010den\u00e1 stezka. Vodop\u00e1d se d\u00e1 prohl\u00e9dnout i zeshora. Vede k\u00a0n\u011bmu n\u011bkolik stezek, a to bu\u010f del\u0161\u00ed od Naturum a nebo cesta p\u0159es h\u0159ebeny okolo Old Tjikko. Jak se vy\u0161plh\u00e1te do \u00farovn\u011b vodop\u00e1du, tak se p\u0159ed v\u00e1mi rozprost\u0159e dechberouc\u00ed krajina. Po vrstenici se odsud d\u00e1 doj\u00edt k\u00a0jezer\u016fm Harrsj\u00f6 a chat\u011b, kde se d\u00e1 p\u0159espat<\/a>, a nebo se po h\u0159ebenu vr\u00e1tit zp\u00e1tky k\u00a0Naturum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n Jeliko\u017e hust\u011b pr\u0161elo, rozhodli jsme se p\u0159espat pod st\u0159echou v\u00a0m\u00edstn\u00edm kempu v S\u00e4rna, zhruba 20 km od n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku Fulufj\u00e4llet. V\u00a0restauraci zrovna po\u0159\u00e1dali r\u00e4kfrossa<\/strong> (krevetov\u00e1 hore\u010dka), \u00a0\u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00fd krevetov\u00fd bufet. Ze S\u00e4rny jsem se vydali do dal\u0161\u00edho n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku: Sonfj\u00e4llet<\/strong>, domov medv\u011bd\u016f. Cestou jsme se zastavili v\u00a0magick\u00e9m Idrefj\u00e4llet<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Okolo S\u00e4rny jsme vid\u011bli prvn\u00ed divok\u00e9 soby<\/strong>. Ti n\u00e1m k\u0159\u00ed\u017eili cestu p\u0159es silnici. V\u00a0tu chv\u00edli jsme nev\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee sob\u016f potk\u00e1me za tenhle t\u00fdden stovky, a tak jsme je zu\u0159iv\u011b fotili. O p\u00e1r dn\u00ed pozd\u011bji u\u017e jsme m\u011bli tolik fotek sob\u016f, \u017ee jsme sp\u00ed\u0161e doufali, \u017ee se n\u00e1m n\u011bjak\u00e9 mal\u00e9 sob\u00ed miminko nezapomene p\u0159ed autem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n Sonfj\u00e4llet<\/a> je n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parkem, kter\u00fd je domovem medv\u011bd\u016f<\/strong>. Medv\u011bd\u00ed z\u00f3na za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 okolo m\u011bsta Orsa (n\u00e1hoda, \u017ee orsa <\/em>znamen\u00e1 latinsky medv\u011bd?). V n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku Sonfj\u00e4llet a okol\u00ed se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v\u011bt\u0161ina \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00fdch medv\u011bd\u016f. Medv\u011bd\u016f jsou ve \u0160v\u00e9dsku stovky, narozd\u00edl od Norska, kde je jich pr\u00fd jen 170. Pokud budete m\u00edt \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, tak m\u016f\u017eete n\u011bjak\u00e9ho medv\u011bda v Sonfj\u00e4llet zahl\u00e9dnout, a nebo minim\u00e1ln\u011b naraz\u00edte na jejich stopy v lese. Podle dostupn\u00fdch nau\u010dn\u00fdch publikac\u00ed jsou v\u0161ak medv\u011bdi v\u011bt\u0161inou stydliv\u00ed. Pokud nenaraz\u00edte na medv\u011bda, kter\u00fd je zran\u011bn\u00fd a nebo m\u00e1 okolo sebe mlad\u00e9, teoreticky by v\u00e1s pr\u00fd m\u011bl nechat b\u00fdt. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Dominantou Sonfj\u00e4llet je ur\u010dit\u011b impozantn\u00ed hora ty\u010d\u00edc\u00ed se do krajiny. Je n\u011bco p\u0159es 1 000 m vysok\u00e1. Nahoru vede stezka, kter\u00e1 se jmenuje Lillfj\u00e4llets topp<\/strong>, v\u00a0p\u0159ekladu Vrchol mal\u00e9 hory<\/em>. Bu\u010f se jedn\u00e1 o prvn\u00ed sarkastick\u00fd vtip v\u00a0historii \u0160v\u00e9dska a nebo maj\u00ed m\u011b\u0159\u00edtko, co je mal\u00e9, tak trochu jinde. Na Lillfl\u00e4llets topp se d\u00e1 vy\u0161kr\u00e1bat<\/strong> (ano, vy\u0161kr\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed je nejp\u0159esn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed popis<\/em>) p\u0159es kamenn\u00e9 bloky. Cesta dol\u016f je hor\u0161\u00ed, jeliko\u017e \u00fapat\u00ed hory je fakt celkem strm\u00e9. Sjet vylo\u017een\u011b po zadku tuhle holou sk\u00e1lu<\/strong> byl nejlep\u0161\u00ed z\u00a0m\u00fdch divn\u00fdch n\u00e1pad\u016f, jeliko\u017e p\u0159edstava, \u017ee bych se zkut\u00e1lela dol\u016f, mi ned\u011blala moc dob\u0159e. V\u00fdhled je ale kr\u00e1sn\u00fd a stoj\u00ed i za ty rozklepan\u00e9 nohy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n Po Sonfj\u00e4llet p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edme, kam se d\u00e1le vrtnout. Jedna diskutovan\u00e1 mo\u017enost je n\u00e1rodn\u00ed park T\u00f6fsingsdalen<\/a>, ale kdy\u017e se do\u010dteme, \u017ee do n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku se d\u00e1 dostat jenom helikopt\u00e9rou, na ly\u017e\u00edch a nebo p\u011b\u0161ky, tak mo\u017enost zavhrneme. Na n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu nejm\u00e9n\u011b nav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u00e9ho parku a nejnep\u0159\u00edstupn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho m\u00edsta ve \u0160v\u00e9dsku<\/a> nem\u00e1me \u010das, vybaven\u00ed, ani zku\u0161enosti. Rozhodneme se tedy pokra\u010dovat do nitra s\u00e1msk\u00e9 oblasti, sm\u011brem k\u00a0Flatruet<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Flatruet <\/a>je nev\u00fd\u0161e polo\u017een\u00e1 obecn\u00ed cesta ve \u0160v\u00e9dsku, a to 975 n.m. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 je pastvinou pro st\u00e1da sob\u016f, kter\u00e9 chovaj\u00ed S\u00e1mov\u00e9 z bl\u00edzk\u00e9 vesnice Mitt\u00e5dalen<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n S\u00e1mov\u00e9<\/strong> jsou p\u016fvodn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 t\u00e9to \u010d\u00e1sti \u0160v\u00e9dska (S\u00e1pmi<\/em> land<\/em>). Tak\u00e9 \u017eij\u00ed v Norsku, Finsku a Rusku. Jejich zp\u016fsob \u017eivota je velmi specifick\u00fd. V\u011bt\u0161inov\u00e1 spole\u010dnost se nemohla p\u0159en\u00e9st p\u0159es jejich \u017eivotn\u00ed styl: ko\u010dovn\u00fd chov sob\u016f<\/strong>. Sobi si nav\u00edc ned\u011blali n\u011bjakou velkou hlavu z toho, \u017ee p\u0159ekra\u010duj\u00ed st\u00e1tn\u00ed hranic\u00ed \u0160v\u00e9dsko-Norsko bez cestovn\u00edch doklad\u016f. Sou\u017eit\u00ed S\u00e1m\u016f a \u0160v\u00e9d\u016f p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161elo ve\u00a0dvac\u00e1tem stolet\u00ed spoustu probl\u00e9m\u016f, k\u0159ivd a nepochopen\u00ed s\u00e1msk\u00e9 kultury. S\u00e1mov\u00e9 jsou nyn\u00ed uzn\u00e1vanou n\u00e1rodnostn\u00ed men\u0161inou. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Ve \u0160v\u00e9dsku jsou st\u00e1le S\u00e1mov\u00e9, kter\u00e9 \u017eij\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem \u017eivota a \u017eiv\u00ed se chovem sob\u016f. St\u00e1da sob\u016f, kter\u00e9 potk\u00e1te zejm\u00e9na v\u00a0bl\u00edzkosti s\u00e1msk\u00fdch vesnic (nap\u0159. Mitt\u00e5dalen a Flatruet) jsou z\u00a0poloviny domestikovan\u00ed a pozn\u00e1te je podle barevn\u00e9ho zna\u010den\u00ed. Po horsk\u00fdch plo\u0161in\u00e1ch se jich tu proh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed stovky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n \u010cas nemilosrdn\u011b ut\u00edk\u00e1 a my se rozlou\u010dili s\u00a0n\u00e1padem, \u017ee bychom pokra\u010dovali je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1le na sever, sm\u011brem k \u00c5re. Z domova jsme zhruba 5 dn\u00ed a poda\u0159ilo se n\u00e1m dojet ani ne do poloviny \u0160v\u00e9dska, zhruba tak 700 km nad G\u00f6teborg. Na\u0161\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vkou je Fun\u00e4sdalen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fun\u00e4sdalen<\/a><\/strong> je dal\u0161\u00ed z horsk\u00fdch ly\u017ea\u0159sk\u00fdch st\u0159edisek, zhruba p\u016fl hodinku od norsk\u00fdch hranic. Vypravujeme se nahoru na horu, Fun\u00e4sdalsberget<\/strong>. Na vrchol vede ly\u017ea\u0159sk\u00e1 lanovka s impozantn\u00edm rozhledem na cel\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed a dol\u016f se dostanete zhruba 10 km dlouhou proch\u00e1zkou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n Jeliko\u017e se n\u00e1m dovolen\u00e1 kr\u00e1t\u00ed, tak za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me vym\u00fd\u0161let, jak se dostat zp\u00e1tky do G\u00f6teborgu. Rozhodneme se pro posledn\u00ed zast\u00e1vku: hornick\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko R\u00f8ros <\/a>(UNESCO) a n\u00e1rodn\u00ed park Femundsmarka v Norsku<\/a>. Femundsmarka na norsk\u00e9 stran\u011b soused\u00ed s chr\u00e1n\u011bnou krajinou na stran\u011b \u0161v\u00e9dsk\u00e9. Spole\u010dn\u011b je tento prostor jednou z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed divo\u010dinou v ji\u017en\u00ed Skandin\u00e1vii. Bohu\u017eel nem\u00e1me ji\u017e tolik \u010dasu, kolik bychom si p\u0159\u00e1li, a tak nestihneme ani lo\u010f, kter\u00e1 k\u0159i\u017euje p\u0159es jezero n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku, ani n\u011bjak\u00e9 del\u0161\u00ed proch\u00e1zky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Stihneme ale n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu ve zdej\u0161\u00edm Visitor Centre<\/strong>. To\u010d\u00ed se n\u00e1m hlava p\u0159i v\u00fd\u010dtu zv\u00ed\u0159at, kter\u00e9 se v t\u00e9hle divo\u010din\u011b nach\u00e1z\u00ed: pla\u0161\u00ed rysov\u00e9, p\u00e1r medv\u011bd\u016f, bob\u0159i, losi, sobi, ly\u0161ky, kuny, vydry, rosom\u00e1ci (takov\u00e1 velk\u00e1 lasi\u010dka), pi\u017emo\u0148 seversk\u00fd (n\u011bco mezi kr\u00e1vou\/kozou\/ovc\u00ed\/beranem). <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Sobov\u00e9, vodop\u00e1dy, d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 a nezkrotn\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda aneb t\u00fdden v Dalarna a J\u00e4mtland.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":567,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[39],"tags":[6,49,48,45,27],"class_list":["post-562","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani-po-svedsku","tag-cestovani","tag-dalarna","tag-jamtland","tag-roadtrip","tag-svedsko"],"yoast_head":"\nRoadtrip do Dalarna a J\u00e4mtland<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
N\u00e1rodn\u00ed park Fulufj\u00e4llet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Krevetov\u00e1 hore\u010dka v S\u00e4rna<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Sonfj\u00e4llet – domov medv\u011bd\u016f<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Flatruet, sobi a S\u00e1mov\u00e9<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Fun\u00e4sdalen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Norsk\u00fd R\u00f8ros a Femundsmarka<\/h2>\n\n\n\n